How to Build a Window Box Planter | Live Green | Better Homes and Gardens Real Estate

Get a front row seat to the fruits of your labor each time you peer out the window.

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How to Get Started

Building a window planter box can help add color and life to your window’s view. Window planter boxes are especially helpful for landscaping in an urban environment, where there might not be any room for natural greenery.

Instructions:

1. Cutting boards. From ¾-inch-thick redwood or cedar, cut the front, back, bottom, and ends to size.The back piece should be roughly the width of your window plus an inch or two.

2. Drilling holes. Before mounting the planter to the wall (this is done later), drill countersunk mounting holes through the back piece, centering the holes over studs in the wall. Bore 1/2-inch drain holes in the bottom piece.

3. Crafting the front. Mark the opening on the front, drill a hole to insert blade, and cut the arch-top opening. Rout a rabbet on the inside face of the frontpiece and cut a piece of 1/4-inch exterior plywood to fit the rabbeted opening.

4. Assembling the box. Butt-join the ends to the back and miter the front corner joints. Glue all joints, using water-resistant glue. Reinforce the butt joints with 1-1/2-inch deck screws and the mitered joints with finish nails. Counterbore the holes so the screw heads are slightly recessed. You can putty over them later. Set the nails.

5. Making brackets. Enlarge the gridded bracket pattern, and transfer it three times to 2x10 stock. Cut the three brackets to shape. Using an exterior latex or enamel, paint the planter box, brackets, and plywood panel.

6. Attaching brackets. Screw the brackets to the bottom of the planter. Glue the painted plywood panel into the arch-top rabbeted opening.

7. Adding the molding. Miter-cut quarter-round molding to fit the front of the opening. Paint the molding and nail in place with finish nails. Set the nails, putty the holes, and touch up paint.

8. Hanging the box. Secure the planter to the house with 3-1/2-inch deck or lag screws. Hit studs when possible.